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“ITS FORTIFIED – BUT HOW AND WHY?”
How Port is Made : Port production involves several key steps:
Grape Harvesting and Fermentation
- Harvesting: Grapes used for Port are typically hand-harvested from the steep vineyards of the Douro Valley. The primary grape varieties include Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca, and Tinta Cão.
- Fermentation: Once harvested, the grapes are crushed to release their juice. Traditionally, this was done by foot treading in stone tanks called lagares, but today many producers use mechanical methods. The fermentation process is relatively short, lasting only about two to three days.
Fortification
- Fortification is a key step that differentiates Port from other wines. To stop the fermentation process and preserve the natural sugars of the grapes, a neutral grape spirit called aguardente is added. This fortification increases the alcohol content to around 19-22% and locks in the sweetness. It is critical to understand that Port is not fortified to dry.
Aging
- After fortification, the young Port wine is transported to the producers’ lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, near Porto, where it is aged. The aging process significantly affects the style and flavor of the Port.
- Port is aged in a variety of containers, including large wooden casks, stainless steel tanks, or smaller barrels called pipes. The choice of aging method and duration is what gives the port it’s particular classification of the Port.
Historic Famous Producers
Port has a long history, with some producers dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Many of these producers are known as Port houses or shippers. Here are a few of the most historic and famous:
Taylor’s (Est. 1692)
- One of the oldest and most respected Port houses, Taylor’s is known for its vintage Ports and pioneering the Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) style. Taylor’s has remained family-owned and operated, maintaining a reputation for quality and tradition.
Graham’s (Est. 1820)
- Founded by two Scottish brothers, Graham’s is renowned for its rich and full-bodied Ports. It is particularly famous for its vintage Ports and tawny Ports. The Symington family, a key name in Port, now owns it.
Sandeman (Est. 1790)
- Established by George Sandeman, this Port house is known for its distinctive black-cloaked logo and a range of high-quality Ports, including both vintage and tawny styles. Sandeman is known for its innovation and marketing.
Fonseca (Est. 1815)
- Fonseca has a strong reputation for its vintage Ports, known for their depth and complexity. The house is also noted for its sustainable viticulture practices and has been a leader in organic and biodynamic farming in the Douro.
Warre’s (Est. 1670)
- The oldest British Port company established in Portugal, Warre’s is known for producing well-structured vintage Ports and has a long history of family ownership, now part of the Symington family group.
Dow’s (Est. 1798)
- Dow’s is renowned for its dry and austere style of Port, particularly its vintage offerings. It is also under the ownership of the Symington family, a significant player in the Port industry.
Main Classifications and Terminology
Port is classified into several main styles based on the aging process, color, and sweetness levels. Here’s an overview of the main classifications and key terminology used in Port:
Ruby Port
- Ruby Port is a young, vibrant style of Port that is aged in large oak barrels or stainless steel tanks for a short period (usually 2-3 years) to retain its fresh, fruity characteristics. It is deep red in color and has flavors of red and dark fruits, such as cherries and plums.
- Reserve Ruby Port: A higher-quality ruby Port with more extended aging and richer flavors.
Tawny Port
- Tawny Port is aged in smaller wooden barrels, which allows for more oxygen exposure. This aging process gives the Port a lighter, amber-brown color and a nutty, caramel flavor profile. Tawny Ports can be aged for a range of years, usually 10, 20, 30, or even 40 years.
- Colheita Tawny Port: A tawny Port made from grapes of a single vintage year. It is aged in wood for a minimum of seven years before bottling.
White Port
- White Port is made from white grape varieties and can range from dry to very sweet. It is typically aged for a short period and has a golden color, with flavors that can include citrus, honey, and nuts.
Rosé Port
- A relatively recent style, Rosé Port is made with limited skin contact during fermentation, giving it a lighter, pink color. It is typically fruity and designed to be served chilled.
Vintage Port
- Vintage Port is the most prestigious and expensive type of Port. It is made from the grapes of a single exceptional harvest year (declared by the producer) and aged in barrels for about 2-3 years before being bottled unfiltered. Vintage Port is meant to age in the bottle for many years, even decades, and develops complex flavors over time.
- Single Quinta Vintage Port: Made from the grapes of a single estate (quinta) in a declared vintage year, this style is similar to vintage Port but may not be as widely recognized as a “general” vintage declaration.
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port
- LBV Port is made from a single vintage but aged in barrels for a longer period (usually 4-6 years) before bottling. It is typically ready to drink upon release, offering some characteristics of vintage Port at a more accessible price point.
Crusted Port
- Crusted Port is a blend of different vintages and aged in barrels for about 3-4 years before being bottled unfiltered. It develops sediment (crust) in the bottle over time, requiring decanting. It offers a rich, complex flavor similar to vintage Port but without a vintage year designation.
Key Terminology in Port
- Aguardente: The neutral grape spirit added to stop fermentation and fortify the wine.
- Lagares: Traditional stone tanks where grapes are crushed and fermented.
- Pipes: Traditional wooden barrels used for aging Port, with a capacity of about 550 liters.
- Cárcavelos: Another style of fortified wine from Portugal, often confused with Port but distinct in style and region.
Understanding these classifications, production methods, and the history behind Port can greatly enhance your wine knowledge.
How is Sherry made : Sherry production involves a complex process, which can be broken down into several stages:
Grape Varieties and Harvesting
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Sherry is primarily made from three grape varieties:
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Palomino: The most common grape, used for producing dry Sherries.
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Pedro Ximénez (PX): Used to make sweet Sherries.
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Moscatel: Another grape used for sweet Sherry production, though less common than PX.
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The grapes are harvested in early autumn, usually in August or September, when they have reached the desired sugar levels.
Fermentation
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After harvesting, the grapes are pressed, and the juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks or old oak barrels. For Palomino grapes, this process typically produces a dry wine with around 11-12% alcohol by volume.
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Once fermentation is complete, the wine is fortified with neutral grape spirit (aguardiente). The degree of fortification will determine whether the wine develops into a lighter Fino/Manzanilla style or a richer Oloroso.
Fortification and Aging
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Fortification: Sherry is fortified after fermentation. Depending on the style being produced, the wine is fortified to either around 15% alcohol for lighter styles like Fino or Manzanilla, or to about 17-18% for richer styles like Oloroso.
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Biological Aging (for Finos and Manzanillas): Sherry aged under a layer of yeast called flor develops through a process called biological aging. The flor protects the wine from oxygen and gives it its distinctive tangy, briny flavors. This type of aging occurs in Finos and Manzanillas.
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Oxidative Aging (for Olorosos and Amontillados): Sherries that do not develop flor undergo oxidative aging, where they are exposed to oxygen, which darkens the wine and adds rich, nutty flavors.
The Solera System
One of the most unique aspects of Sherry production is the solera system, a dynamic aging method where younger wines are gradually blended with older wines over time. This system involves a series of barrels, with new wine being added to the top row (criadera) and older wine being taken from the bottom row (solera) for bottling.
This process allows for consistency and complexity, as younger wines gain character from the older ones.
Overview of Sherry
Sherry is a fortified wine from the Jerez region in Andalusia, Spain. It’s known for its incredible diversity, with styles ranging from bone-dry to rich and sweet, offering something for nearly every palate. The unique production process and aging system, along with the region’s terroir, give Sherry its distinctive character.
Historic Famous Producers of Sherry
Several historic producers have been essential to the development of Sherry and remain highly respected today. Here are a few of the most famous Sherry bodegas:
1. González Byass (Est. 1835)
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Known for its flagship Sherry, Tío Pepe Fino, González Byass is one of the most prestigious Sherry houses. The company remains a family-owned business and has expanded internationally while maintaining its reputation for producing excellent Sherries. It’s famous for its vast cellars in Jerez, where barrels of Tío Pepe age under flor for years.
2. Lustau (Est. 1896)
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Lustau is a Sherry house noted for producing a wide range of high-quality Sherries, from everyday bottlings to rare, limited-edition styles. Lustau is famous for its Almacenista range, which celebrates traditional small-scale production methods. The house’s Solera Gran Reserva and Vintage Sherries are also highly regarded.
3. Osborne (Est. 1772)
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One of the oldest and most iconic Sherry producers, Osborne is famous for both its Sherry and its logo of the black bull (El Toro). Osborne produces a wide array of Sherries, from Finos and Olorosos to very sweet and old PX wines. Its flagship Fino, Fino Quinta, is particularly well-known.
4. Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana (Est. 1792)
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Based in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, this bodega is best known for its Manzanilla Sherry, particularly the famous La Gitana Manzanilla, which is often considered the benchmark for this style. The bodega has been family-owned for generations and produces Sherries of exceptional quality.
5. Bodegas Tradición (Est. 1998)
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While relatively new, Bodegas Tradición focuses on old and rare Sherries, specifically VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry), which are aged for at least 30 years. The bodega was founded with the goal of preserving the traditional styles of Sherry, particularly old Olorosos and Amontillados.
6. Barbadillo (Est. 1821)
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Another historic producer from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Barbadillo is renowned for its Manzanilla Sherries, with Manzanilla Solear being one of the most popular expressions. The house also produces a range of other styles, including Pedro Ximénez and Amontillado.
Main Classifications and Terminology in Sherry
Sherry is classified into several styles based on aging method, sweetness levels, and the influence of flor. Here are the main classifications and key terms you’ll encounter when discussing Sherry:
1. Dry Sherries (Seco)
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Fino: A light, pale, and dry Sherry that undergoes biological aging under flor. It has fresh, almond-like flavors with saline and yeasty notes. Fino should be served chilled and consumed relatively young.
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Manzanilla: A type of Fino that is produced specifically in the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It tends to be even lighter and more delicate than Fino, with a distinctive salty tang due to the maritime climate. Manzanilla Pasada is a slightly older, more oxidized version of Manzanilla.
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Amontillado: Initially aged under flor like Fino, but then exposed to oxygen, giving it a more complex and richer profile. It combines the fresh, yeasty notes of a Fino with the nuttier, richer character of an Oloroso.
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Palo Cortado: A rare and sought-after style of Sherry that begins as a Fino but loses its flor early in the aging process, resulting in a wine that has the elegance of an Amontillado but the body and richness of an Oloroso.
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Oloroso: A dark, nutty, and rich Sherry that undergoes oxidative aging without flor. Oloroso Sherry is more robust and full-bodied than Fino or Amontillado, with flavors of dried fruits, nuts, and spices.
2. Sweet Sherries
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Pedro Ximénez (PX): Made from the Pedro Ximénez grape, these Sherries are incredibly sweet and syrupy, with flavors of raisins, figs, molasses, and chocolate. PX is often enjoyed as a dessert wine or used to sweeten other Sherries.
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Moscatel: A sweet Sherry made from the Moscatel grape, with floral and honeyed notes. It’s less common than PX but still appreciated for its rich, sweet flavor profile.
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Cream Sherry: A blend of Oloroso with a sweetening component (often Pedro Ximénez). This results in a rich, smooth, sweet Sherry with flavors of caramel, toffee, and figs. Harveys Bristol Cream is a well-known example of this style.
3. Aging Classifications
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VOS (Very Old Sherry): Sherries with an average age of at least 20 years.
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VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry): Sherries with an average age of at least 30 years. These are some of the most prized and rare Sherries, offering incredible complexity and depth.
4. Other Important Terminology
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Flor: The natural yeast that forms a layer on top of some Sherry wines during biological aging. It protects the wine from oxygen and imparts unique flavors.
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Solera: The traditional aging system used in Sherry production, involving the gradual blending of younger wines with older wines to maintain consistency and complexity.
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Criadera: The tiers in the solera system where the wine is aged before reaching the solera level (the final stage from which wine is drawn for bottling).
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Almacenista: A small-scale Sherry producer who matures wine before selling it to larger Sherry houses. Some Sherry houses, like Lustau, bottle and market Sherries from individual almacenistas.
Serving and Pairing Sherry
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Serving: Dry Sherries (Fino, Manzanilla) should be served chilled, while older or sweeter styles (Amontillado, Oloroso, PX) can be served at room temperature or slightly cooler.
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Pairing: Fino and Manzanilla pair well with salty tapas, olives, and seafood. Amontillado complements rich, nutty dishes and hard cheeses, while Oloroso pairs well with roasted meats and mature cheeses. PX is perfect with rich desserts or as a dessert on its own.